Stained Glass Window Arch – for That’s Crafty!

Following my TV appearance a fortnight ago, I do apologise for not getting a tutorial done earlier as I promised – I came down with a humdinger of a cold the week following the shows. Between the lethargy, the laryngitis and other stuff, I didn’t get to do what I wanted in The Studio. ‘Tis done now though, so grab a cup of your favourite beverage and start reading!


I thought I would show you how I created my stained glass window arch using the fabulous Arch Upright from That’s Crafty! since I didn’t get the chance to show it off on air. Mixing different types of ink (alcohol and Distress) and paint, and making full use of a Dinky Stencil, this window brings together a number of techniques to complete a mixed media mediaeval masterpiece!


First off, we need to do a little bit of preparation work.


Overlap some masking tape to make a width enough to draw the outline of the arch window using the Church Window Dinky Stencil. Cut outside the traced line (see the red dotted line).


Now trace the stencil onto a piece of stiff card. Then using a ruler as a spacer (I used ¼” gap) mark dots around the arch to make a frame.


Follow the lines down the sides and make a stepped bottom for the sill.


Finally, fill in the lines between your marks. Cut out the frame, both the outer edge you’ve just done, as well as the inner traced lines.


Peel off the protective plastic from the FRONT of the upright and stick down the masking tape cut out in the centre.


Next, we use alcohol inks to create the stained glass effect. This section works on the REVERSE side of the acrylic upright.


Peel off the protective layer on the back of the upright and place front down. Add a squirt of the following Ranger Alcohol Inks to the felt pad [Watermelon / Sunshine Yellow / Sunset Orange] and dab over the area covered with the masking tape. Remember, you’re NOT covering the masking tape, that’s on the wrong side. Allow to dry momentarily, then repeat. Add Raspberry and Purple Twilight and repeat. Briefly waft dry with a heat tool.


Next, we use chalky paints to give a matt stone effect. This section works on the FRONT side of the acrylic upright.


Flip the upright over, and then apply several coats of a stone colour chalky paint using a make up sponge to add a stipple texture. The first coat will be uneven, so don’t be too fussy with it. Dry between each layer by wafting with a heat tool.


Stipple on a slightly darker shade of paint in different areas of the arch to add some variation and depth to the coating.


‘Dry sponge’ a lighter shade of paint through the Hole in the Wall Dinky Stencil, drying each sponging before moving the stencil around the arch.


Add the brick outline to the window as well. Dry completely.


Finally, swipe a small amount of Walnut Stain and Vintage Photo Distress Inks onto the edges and catch the stippled paint in places, particularly at the bottom. If you add too much, wipe it off with a baby wipe, dry and repeat.


To add the stone effect to the frame, cover the card cut out with Antique Linen Distress Ink, before picking out shadowed areas with the ink left on your blending tool from the previous step.


Now we’ll be working on the foot section of the upright.


Peel off the protective film from one side of the foot. ‘Dry’ sponge an acrylic paint through the Jewelled Dinky Stencil, overlapping the pattern to repeat it along the length. If you line it up carefully, you won’t need to dry between sections, and can easily blend paint overlaps.


Cover over the whole area with grey paint (or whatever colour you want the ‘grout’ between the ’tiles’ to be. Dry and repeat until you have a solid coverage.


Here’s a top tip when working on clear acrylic.


One side effect of working over clear acrylic is light transmission through paint layers. I overcame this by working on the REVERSE and first added a sponged layer of the stone coloured chalky paint. [View from the front]


Over that I painted a couple of layers of black acrylic ink (you could use paint instead) to stop any light transmission through the stone effect. [View from the front]


Add the frame to the front of the upright using foam pads. Once everything is dry, place the painted side of the foot down, and pop the upright into the laser cut slots.